victorian housesI have had an old Victorian pine cupboard stripped of paint – what is the best way to finish it now? victorian houses

Question by bourbonbiscuit: I have had an old Victorian pine cupboard stripped of paint – what is the best way to finish it now?
I have an old Victorian kitchen cupboard, quite plain to look at with tongue and groove style doors. It had been covered in lead paint so I had it professionally stripped. I don’t know what to do with it once it has dried out. The man that stripped it said to wash it down with vinegar if the acid comes out of the wood as it dries. But what then…do I need to wax it – if so what type of wax? or should I varnish it? Also if it is best to wax it – is this a really messy job needed to be done outside or in the shed or can I do it in the house. Any help appreciated.

Best answer:

Answer by ???mom3
Stain it that’s quick and very easy looks natural

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Playmobil Grande Mansion and Victorian Kitchen 5317

Equipped with an oven sink dining corner and plenty of accessories the Playmobil Kitchen is the perfect accessory for the Playmobil Grande Mansion. Accessories include mom son pots utensils food and more. Recommended for ages 4 and up.

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4 comments

Comments

  1. TLH Band Drummer
    Tue 19th Oct 2010 at 5:27 pm

    Depending on the condition/color of the wood, you might just need to put on a couple of coats of polyurethane. Polyurethane would need to be applied in a well ventilated area, but you should be able to apply 3 or 4 good coats over a weekend (assuming you start on a Friday evening).

    If it’s too “pine yellow” (bright), you could use a light stain to tone the piece down.

  2. okimreadynow
    Tue 19th Oct 2010 at 6:11 pm

    I would condition the wood and put a protective coat on it, real wood is so pretty.

  3. split dog
    Tue 19th Oct 2010 at 6:24 pm

    Well….
    A professional stripper should have properly neutralized the piece.
    Typically if it has been “cold ” dipped or stripped w/ caustic a mild acid solution rinse should have been done.
    Nothing should be weeping out of the wood as it dries.
    A wipe with mineral spirits should be enough as a cleanup before finishing.
    As for the rest, depends on the type of wood & condition of the piece
    If it is still “damp” check it for “squareness” before it dries
    Measure it across the corners diagonally , measurements should match.
    If not , clamp it if you can or just tie it up w/ rope.
    Had a stripping shop & repaired & “refinished ” for a number of antique shops.
    Basics for antiques…..Less is more
    Staining is generally not done ( up to you) .
    The piece must be completely free of finish & on an old piece it could end up looking like a giraffe.
    Avoid sanding unless it is very lightly done by hand & it is a soft wood like pine to knock down any hairs or popped grain.
    Rubbing w/ bronze wool ( with the grain) will do same & will not dulll corners & any detail.
    Bamboo skewers are good to pick out corners & details.
    Shellac is an easy finish to apply & very forgiving if touch up is needed.
    Easily applied with a good brush in several thin coats with a rub with the bronze wool in between
    It can be thinned w/ denatured alcohol (up to 1 part alcohol to 3 parts shellac +/- is safe).
    Orange shellac adds a little color & gives a warmer look.
    Oil finish of French polish is easy & works well on harder wood.
    Clean soft cloths are about all that is needed.
    The Minwax oil finish is good “straight” & can build up a soft finish w/ a few applications.
    You can do an “easy” french polish by rubbing the piece with a mixture of shellac , oil finish & denatured alcohol. Roughly ,3 parts oil ,2 parts shellac 1/2 part alcohol.
    A little of each to moisten a soft cloth & rub small areas to get some friction going.
    Dries faster & harder than straight oil & needs to be “built up”
    in several applications.
    With either finish, the piece will tell you when to stop when there are no “dry” patches to be seen.
    Varnish is also good , but takes a little more care than the others & more in between work Mc Kloskeys is common.
    One or two good rubbings w/ over the counter” Butchers “pastewax is all that is needed .
    About $20 for everything plus patience,& some elbow grease will give you good results & the soft , warm finish you see in antique shop windows
    Not messy esp if there is no sanding & smells nice while you work.
    Most importantly, not sanding & the “old school” finishes will not harm any antique value & maintain the character of the piece.
    Best regards

  4. Free Spirit
    Tue 19th Oct 2010 at 6:32 pm

    Review by Free Spirit for Playmobil Grande Mansion and Victorian Kitchen 5317
    Rating:
    My granddaughter, almost age 5, loves Playmobil toys, and her mom, my older daughter, loves their product line because most (perhaps 90% by serendipitous observation) are made in Europe, and not in China. Playmobil’s attention to detail in their products is magnificent, and kids get a chance to use their imagination in all kinds of creative ways, as the products are totally adaptable to variation. This kitchen set was the last room left to fill in her Playmobil Grande Mansion, which was originally the property of my middle daughter, now 22. Now, if only I can get her to ask for the Playmobil airport set, or construction set, so I can get a chance to revert to my inner child. I should note that as many of the pieces of Playmobil sets are very small, these should not be given to children under three, or to any child with a tendency to put things in their mouth.

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